Jay Rayner reviews

Sunday, April 11, 2010 - Main courses collapse in on themselves: tough lumps of duck with a "pastilla" of the leg, which is nothing of the sort. It should be crisp, light, sweet and, for what it's worth, triangular. This is a log which could have your eye out. Black truffle gnocchi, which had all the texture of those swabs used by dentists, were a travesty...They could have a very nice place here. Service is charming and efficient. There's a great list of serious steaks. They can actually cook. Right now they are trying to cook the wrong things.

Sunday, May 10, 2009 - Gandolfi Fish, a spinoff of the nearby Café Gandolfi, a Glasgow landmark these past 30 years, has almost everything sorted. The black-tabled, mirrored room is made for chatter. The service is impressively efficient and engaged, given there are just two of them for a bustling room. The menu is mostly sensible without being overwrought, and makes enough of good Scottish seafood without you fearing that something unspeakable involving bagpipes might be about to happen. And most of the food really is fine.